New York Fashion Week: thoughts, impressions and AW14 aesthetics á la 3.1 Phillip Lim, Hugo Boss and Victoria Beckham
This article is available also in German.
“Every year the women of New York leave the past behind and look forward to the future…this is known as Fashion Week“ – Carrie Bradshaw.
I’ve found this quote pretty appropriate as I stumbled up some snapshots from NYFW‘s street style and collection palette – Carrie’s sentence could be translated as a direct proportion; new season equals new wardrobe. Although NYFW is over one of the few pleasures left behind is to review some of its hottest moments in terms of the Autumn/Winter 2014 collections. Despite I can’t provide you with a personal comprehensive guide to New York Fashion Week let me share a few thoughts of mine with you before I blast midst of the collections. There are a few lovely reads turned up on the internet lately, one is the ‘Explaining Fashion Week to Your Parents’ article by Man Repeller. I mean seriously; it’s nothing but weird if you are not living in this fashion-universe in which women are wearing heels in the snowstorm, everybody is sticking with their iPhones like moms with their new-born babies! Apparently, it’s not the only article that evoked a great smile on my face but as well did ‘The Definitive Guide’ by Pablo Avion written with a hint of irony blended intelligent impact. Brave, I call it! (Please feel free to head over to the links, they are really fun reads!) And there is another issue, whether fashion weeks are at all relevant today. Here you’ll get my own opinion expressed in a one-word-sentence; Yes! And mainly since obviously New York is THE fashion mecca, but is it also the best place to sell, buy or the debut? Sheila Aimette, vice president of North American content at fashion trend forecaster WGSN said that the city’s openness and reputation as a melting pot offer unparalleled opportunity to designers. “No one embraces new design talent like New York,” Aimette said. “There is that connotation of – if you can make it in New York, you can make it anywhere.” It’s also the fact the NYC is not only a fashion mecca but as well a media capital… And with these voluble thoughts on mind let’s dive deeper in the season’s signature aesthetics staring with my beloved 3.1 Phillip Lim collection straight from NYC:
Setting a statement, brightly colored patchwork shearlings made out with ruffles and winter textures in Lim’s latest collection. Inspired by ‘Soleil’, happy pastels marched down the catwalk in the forms of slouchy trousers and relaxed trenches, heavy vests and new-born ruffles. The Thai-born designer’s styles are belong to one of the most anticipated (and worn) apparel of the now thank to it’s contemporary edge while always findig the balance between eclectic and essential. By the way let’s not forget about this Phillip Lim x Linda Farrow sunglasses that may not be too necessary in the dead of winter (at least not in NYC cause I don’t know where you are based but here in Hungary we are celebrating massive Spring!) but we’d wear them anyway. Wish to take a bet on the bestseller item? I’ll boost the sales of the oversized pink velvet vest that’s definitely going to be my hottest buy of the next season!
After Lim’s winter colour boost surprise let’s see something more purist, carrying a strictly neutral palette of almost all black, charcoal, camel, and ivory. Jason Wu’s first collection as creative director for the German brand was indeed an ode to classic tailoring and refined craftsmanship. Jason Wu for Hugo Boss embraced the era’s business woman by providing perfect tailoring and straight cuts hence formal apparel for the working woman of the now. A little rigorous, the collection showed leather belts accentuated waistlines and silhouettes that were long and lean. I’m sure it can’t be all fun, but maybe a little more playfulness added wouldn’t have left us behind with a quiet moan for a little twist?! On the other hand if I listen to the minimalist me, I did enjoy meeting the Wu-like woman who was both structured and ethereal at once, drawing upon the themes of masculine touches, Bauhaus inspired embroidery and traditional styling elements.
Speaking of masculine touches made me think of another designer who’s business is currently more than just a temporary upsweep. Can you guess behind my blurry words? Yes, I’m talking about Victoria Beckham who’s added some great feminine tone to her sharply tailored collection. Prints and ruffles made a comeback for the colder season, while the palette remained very black and white – quite literally, but with smart pops of red and gold chain details. The collection included pleated dresses and asymmetric skirts, oversized coats, sleeveless jackets, slouchy trousers and FLATS! Another thing; it was all about the hips not the waist. I’m sure I still need to get over the Spice Girls image but Victoria yet again showed her full capabilities as a developing womenswear designer, lining up a highly wearable and timeless modern collection that I actually really liked…(Finally I said it – loud.)
Alexander Wang X H&M ...October 17th, 2014
Central European Fashion ...October 13th, 2014
Ladies first – ...October 4th, 2014
Paris Fashion Week – ...September 30th, 2014
Milan Fashion Week Spring ...September 28th, 2014